As we landed in Lisbon and collected our hire car, we headed off to what would be the Grand Tour’s first hotel, an hour’s drive west from the airport. Once we had navigated our way out of the busy, rush-hour roads surrounding the airport we relaxed into a very pleasant drive into the sunset towards our hotel. The first hotel we found in the Mr and Mrs Smith guide located in the distinguished coastal town of Cascais, the westernmost coastline of Europe. The hire car company had given us a generous upgrade, a big black Volvo XC90 which ensured we arrived in style at the glamorous hotel.
At the front desk, everything felt shiny and smelt expensive. Our expectations were high and we couldn’t wait to explore the grounds immediately but, first, drop the bags and explore the room. The front desk explained that we would have to change rooms the next morning as we booked an extra night when all other rooms were already fully booked. We didn’t really mind
Our first room was located on the lower ground floor with a very modern minimalist interior. I confess I was expecting something more fun and wild, as the hotel’s decor and reputation was based on top Portuguese designers. However, it had a private terrace that leads to the cliff edge with white/turquoise waves crashing into the rocks. Then with the bottle of Portuguese Sparkling wine and chocolate-dipped strawberries, compliments of the hotel, we relaxed and got ready for dinner. We decided to explore the rest of the hotel on the way.
Dinner at The Mix was exceptional. The hotel’s main restaurant serves Mediterranean fusion dishes like Foie Gras with Belgian chocolate and toasted hazelnuts - a whopping €23 for a starter (only realised when got the bill) but worth every spoonful. Thankfully it was a very generous portion. We also loved the grilled octopus, a nice chunky piece of meat swirled on the plate with crushed potatoes and pork sausage sauce. And, if the food doesn’t get you tempted, the restaurant has floor to ceiling windows and fabulous views of the Atlantic - when booking ask for a table by the window for a more romantic and private atmosphere.
Farol Hotel is a traditional 19th century Manor house that stands on the edge of the ocean with a modern extension that rests on the very rugged rocky sea wall (the name means Lighthouse). Once a private holiday home for Portuguese aristocrats, now it is a holiday destination open to the world, no titles required. But one still needs cash to spare, as the rooms here are much pricier than most hotels we stayed in Portugal. The interior of the Manor is now a blend of stylishly designed modern retro with plenty of mirrors, wood panelling and a collection of designer chairs, with a cool stark white minimalist exterior around the gardens and pool area - perfect for chill-chic, and right overlooking the Atlantic.
Much of Cool Cascais is located in the outskirts of the town although some buildings in the city centre stand tall in the sea wall. There are lots of beautiful fairytale palaces and large villas to see as you explore the area on foot, which can be done in either direction from the hotel. As for Cascais centre, although still a quaint fishing village, it is like any other tourist town in Portugal and more like something you will find in the Algarve.
On our second morning, we had to change rooms (but hadn’t completely unpacked). This time we moved to one of the attic rooms. The interior was again all white/minimalism but with the large original exposed beams that gave the room a warm feeling. This time we had direct views over the pool area to the sea. The bathroom was a bit of an afterthought and didn’t really fit the space; plus it was a bit the 90s and to enter the shower/bath you had to be an expert at reverse parking. It somehow feels very right to be sleeping up in the rafters of an old house and the room otherwise felt very restful for that.
We hoovered up breakfast in the sun and quickly moved to the pool area, and the shaded day beds right on the edge of the ocean. Although this was September, it was quite windy and a little chilly when the sun went in. We were told Cascais can easily turn cold like that, or just as easily be 30 degrees. So we decided after a while to take the car and explore the countryside. It was windy there too.
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